These are generalized instructions and are not intended to be all-inclusive. For more detail on your model see service manual.
2) Drain primary case oil on wet clutch models.
3) Remove outer primary cover.
4) Check primary chain alignment. Place a strait edge across the gasket surface on the inner primary. Using a dial caliper, measure the distance from the straight edge to the primary chain as close to the clutch as possible with the chain pushed all the way in. Record this measurement as A. Repeat measuring as close to the compensator sprocket as possible. Label this measurement B. Subtract B from A and note this C. A-B=C.
C can be a positive or negative number but should not exceed +/- .030. Save this dimension for reassembly.
5) Consult appropriate service manual and remove compensator sprocket.
Note: After several thousand miles it may be possible to remove the compensator sprocket and chain adjustor shoe without removing the clutch. Caution: Do not put excessive side force on chain.
6) Remove output shaft extension. Take note of all shims and spaces between output shaft extension and rotor.
7) Remove rotor and all spacers under rotor.
Note: It may be necessary to remove the inner primary on earlier models.
8) Unplug regulator from stator
9) Remove 4 stator mounting screws. Remove 2 stator plug clamp screws. Remove stators.
1) Install stator plug and plug clamp in case. Use lock-tight 222 purple on clamp screws.
2) Mount stator to engine case with new mounting screws (supplied). Screws have thread-locking compound already applied. Torque screws to 30-40 in-lbs.
Rotor installation for CE-22A NB
1- Install small diameter .095 shim supplied with kit on output shaft before rotor.
2- Install rotor on output shaft.
3- 1970-1990 Place large 2.81 O.D. x .219 thick shim (supplied with kit) on output shaft after rotor.
1991-later FLT and FXR use a .249 shim (use stock 1.75 OD x.249 thick) or add .030 variable thickness spacer, after .219 shim supplied with kit.
1991-later Softtail and Dyna models no spacer washers are used on out side of rotor.
4- All models-add necessary variable thickness shims to achieve proper primary chain alignment. If dimension C from step 4 of removal is within +/- .030, reuse the same variable thickness spacers between the thick shim and output shaft extension.
If dimension C was more than +/- .030, use thicker or thinner shims as necessary to get C within +/- .030 If C is positive, use thinner shims. If C is negative, use thicker shims.
If C= -.040 and you add .060 C would = +. 020
When C=zero compensator sprocket and clutch sprocket are in line.
6- Install inner primary if removed.
7- Install compensator sprocket with chain adjuster shoe, and clutch if removed.
8- Adjust primary chain.
9- Check primary chain alignment.
10- Install outer primary and other parts removed.
Note: Dont forget to add oil on wet clutch models.
Install New Regulator and Battery Eliminater
This regulator must be used with a battery eliminator capasitor.
1) Mount battery eliminator. It should be installed it a cool out of the way position. The head light shell is a good location if it will fit. If mounting on the frame just be shore it is not too close to the cylinder or exhaust pipe.
2) Mount new regulator. Be sure regulator has a good ground connection from the case of regulator to the frame of motorcycle
3) Rout regulator out put wire to the + terminal on battery eliminator and cut to length. Apply ring terminal using proper crimping tool.
Note: Improper crimp on solder-less connectors can cause charging system problems. That will leave you on the side of the road. If you do not have a crimping tool, borrow or buy one. Do not use pliers or rice grips.
4) Connect AC plug to stator, on rubber mount models keep wires away from front motor mount. It moves and can damage wires.
1) Connect the regulator positive wire (middle wire from regulator) to the positive terminal (+) on the battery eliminator.
2) Connect a wire form the negative (-) terminal of the battery eliminator to a good clean ground (The frame or engine case).
Note: improper grounding can result in voltage that can blow head lights.
3) Run a wire from the positive terminal on the battery eliminator to power all your lights. The headlight should be connected to stay on all the time.
5) Check the routing of all wires to be sure they are not in a vulnerable position. Keep wires away from exhaust pipes and moving parts. Be sure wires are not in the very bottom of lower frame or they will get pinched if you bottom out.
Install wire ties where necessary.
Have A Good Ride!!